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‘Emulsifier’ and ‘emulsion’ are words that get used a lot in DIY beauty products. Cosmetic companies use all sorts of chemical or synthetic emulsifiers, but the good news is that there are plenty of natural emulsifiers out there too! Here are my top 5 natural emulsifiers so you don’t have to use chemicals ever again, beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax and organic liquid lecithin.
What is an emulsion
This may seem like a scary word out of a chemistry class, but it is actually a simple process that helps you to create a smooth consistency in your beauty products. An emulsion is simply a mixture of molecules that create a smooth blend of all the same size molecules. For instance, a lighter oil may have small molecules and a heavier butter may have large molecules. To mix them successfully, you will need an emulsifier. The emulsifier helps to bridge the small molecules and the larger molecules, resulting in molecules that are all the same size. Emulsifiers also helps blend oil and water molecules.
Cosmetic companies use all sorts of chemical or synthetic emulsifiers, but the good news is that there are plenty of natural emulsifiers out there too!
100% Natural emulsifiers
These emulsifiers are completely natural. You may choose different ones to use in your products based on texture or nutrient content.
Top 1 Natural Emulsifier – Beeswax
Beeswax is made from the honeycomb of bees and provides a natural protective barrier when applied to the skin. It is also an anti-inflammatory, moisturizing wax with a thick, tacky texture, which makes it a good stiffening agent in DIY beauty products. This is one of my favorite natural emulsifiers because it is very versatile. You can use it to create lip balm, lip gloss, salves, body butter, creams, massage bars, candles, wood polish and much more!
Melting point is 62 to 64 °C.
Check out my honey lip balm recipe like Burt bee’s here.
Top 2 Natural Emulsifier – Candelilla Wax
Candelilla wax is a great vegan alternative to beeswax and is made from the candelilla shrub. It is similar in texture to beeswax. While it is a bit denser than beeswax, candelilla wax absorbs easily into the skin and is full of nutrients. Great to use as a vegan alternative to beeswax!
Melting point is 68-73 oC.
Check out my vegan lip balm recipe here.
Top 3 Natural Emulsifier – Carnauba Wax
Carnauba wax is an edible wax made from a Brazilian palm tree. It is one of the hardest natural waxes available and it provides a glossy finish in natural cosmetics. It is highly emollient, delivering moisture to the skin.
Melting point: 80-86 oC
Check out my coconut oil body butter here.
Top 4 Natural Emulsifier – Rice Bran Wax
Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa) is a wax that can be used in lipstick, salves, body butter but also creams and lotion. This is a good alternative to use if you are vegan.
The melting point is 75/80C.
Check out my favorite lipstick recipe that uses rice bran wax here.
Top 5 Natural Emulsifier – Liquid Lecithin
Liquid Lecithin is a naturally occurring fat found in both plants and animals. Lecithin is an emulsifier and restores skin health by reducing flakiness and dryness. It is also used as a thickener, stabilizer, mild preservative, moisturizer, and emollient in natural beauty products. The only thing I do not like about lecithin is thatit comes from from soybeans and is solvent extracted.
Naturally-derived emulsifier
Naturally derived emulsifiers means they are not 100% natural and are made in a lab, a good example is Emulsifying wax (also called polawax) . This one comes from from palm and is additive-free, making it a good alternative to the 100% natural emulsifiers listed above. This has a high melting point and can help to create an ultra-smooth cream The downside of using emulsifying wax is that you will have to use a preservative because usually you are mixing water with oil and this does not last long without spoiling and getting mold.
Why you might choose to use a Naturally-derived emulsifier
I personally don’t use emulsifiers that are made in a lab on a daily basis. They can, however, be useful if you want to make a liquid lotion that is not greasy. If you are looking to recreate the non-greasy texture of more conventional beauty products, using an emulsifier is the way to go. Just keep in mind, your beauty product will NOT be 100% natural.
Can you make a cream or body butter without an emulsifier?
The answer may surprise you, but it is a ‘yes’. And it is my favorite way of making a cream or body butter without any beeswax, or emulsifying wax.
Basically, if you use a butter and a carrier oil and mix them very fast, it will create a cream and even sometimes a whipped body butter. Even though it is not a proper emulsion, the end result is still a body cream.
Check out my anti-aging face cream recipe without beeswax here.
How to make a basic cream or lotion using an emulsifier
To make a cream or lotion with an emulsifier, you will need to:
1/Melt down the emulsifying wax, or natural wax with your other ingredients
2/ Blend thoroughly with your other ingredients.
Be sure to pay attention to the ratios your specific recipe calls for.
If you are inventing your own recipe using a natural emulsifier, you typically want to be between 5% to 10% of the emulsifier in the mixture.
Please let me know if you have any questions and if you are using any other natural emulsifiers in the comments below!
I hope you have enjoyed my recipe, please share the love and rate ***** in the comments below!
Hi,
Great info. I was wondering which emulsifier best works to combine water and oil to make a face lotion or cream. Does Rice Bran wax do the job?
Beeswax is NOT a true emulsifier. It can help to STABILISE w/o emulsions, however during the cooling stages it captures small droplets of water. Beeswax is an occlusive! PLEASE know the difference! and do proper research or join a school if you are going to be the one to educate and post to those who do not know better. Don’t continue the chain of uneducated info.
Hi there, I’m trying to make some home made cleaning products. But I find that the essential oils can sometimes float about on the surface. All the emulsifiers that I come across are mostly for creams. Is there a liquid alternative that I could use. I currently use deionised water, coco glucose, decyl glucose. I’m trying to keep the ingredients as natural as possible. Thanks
Good day to you. I would like to mix my eucalyptus oil and a water based hand sanitizer, and not sure of the best natural emulsifiers I can use, to stop these two separating? Your guidance is appreciated.
Author
You would need to use a solubilizer like solubol: https://www.aromatics.com/products/solubol-dispersant
Hi, what do you recommend for a all natural emulsifier & preservative to make a hair leave-in conditioner. I want to combine water, infused oils, & butters.
I USE STRAIGHT JOJOBA OIL JUST A FEW DROPS MASSAGED INTO & BRUSHED THROUGH WET HAIR IF YOU CONCENTRATE ON THE ENDS AND MID SECTIONS ENOUGH GETS BRUSHED THROUGH THE TOP AFTER IT HAS DRIED NATURALLY GIVE IT ANOTHER GOOD BRUSH TO BRUSH IN THE SHINE. LEAVES HAIR SOFT AND GORGEOUS I HAVE VERY LONG OLD HAIR AND IT KEEPS IT HEALTHY WITH IT’S LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT IT PENETRATES THE HAIR SHAFT. i DO NOT USE CONDITIONER WHEN I SHAMPOO.
What about cocobutter as a emulsifier for moisturising cream and how much could I use?
Thank goodness I’m not the only one that knows whats wrong here!
Which emulsfier is good for hair condition?
Looking to make a Body Spray with Eo and aloe or Vodka.. Need an emulsifier
Thank you for all your recipes, they have been so super helpful. I cant even express my appreciation well .Thank you!
I’m looking to make a body butter with Shea, murumuru, mango butter, avocado oil, almond oil, and maybe a few others. I’d like to incorporate rose hydrosol as rose oil is so much more expensive. Which emulsifier would you suggest. I also want to infuse some dried calendula into the butter, would it be better to incorporate it into the oil or the water? Any other tips?
Author
you can use beeswax or soy lecithin as an emulsifier. For calendula, you can use calendula hydrosol or it has to be infused into an oil prior, pls read more here: https://www.organic-beauty-recipes.com/how-to-make-calendula-oil/
Hi Eve. Ive done a lot of research trying to find the best natural emulsifier, and if I need a preservative for some of my products. I want my products to be completely natural. Most of my research hasn’t really been much help, until I came across yours. I make my own shampoo, and I want to make body wash also. I want them to have a shampoo and body wash like consistency, instead of being so watery. I also use essential oils, so I know I need an emulsifier to blend the water and oil. What would be my best route to go? Thank you.
Author
Hi Sheena, Hard to help you without knowing exactly what recipe you are using right. For a body wash, you can use castille soap.
Saponification process is different than an emulsification process.
Hi,
I’m trying to create a organic foaming cleanser with essential oils but the oils float and I have to shake every time. Which emulsifier would be best to help all the ingredients interact and mix permanently?
Thanks.
Author
hard to tell without knowing the full recipe and ingredients you are using, if you can share I’ll try to help.
My daughter’s boyfriend has terrible acne. What type of ingredients could I put together to make him a face cream that would help?
Author
Hi Karen, please read this post that gives some insights on a daily routine that helps against acne.
https://www.organic-beauty-recipes.com/natural-skin-care-routine-to-avoid-acne/
Hi Eve. I already posted this question but will also enter it here. What is the best way to use Rice bran wax to make a day lotion that has some body to it? Thanks!
Author
Hi Barbara, so I am clear do you want a lotion that is liquid but has the consistency of a liquid cream?
Hi Eve. I am trying to make a natural face lotion and tried using ESP SafeEmuls with white beeswax as an emulsifier. The SafeEmuls did not perform as indicated in the data sheet and there was an emulsion without any body. The result was more like water! Would rice wax work better? Thank you!
Barbara,
Sounds like to me that your water phase or your oil phase might be to high. Try using the Bees wax and the Rice bran in combination with one another. Generally speaking, the amount of water to start off with is around 65-70%, then you can add a all natural gum like Guar Gum. Adding a gum the the water phase with give the water something called viscosity. It’s a thickening and a stabilizing agent, it’s very common. But don’t use too much, you’ll only need to use 0.8% per 100 gram batch. So if your gonna make a batch that’s 1 kilo, you’ll need 8 grams of gum. Then you can add your emollients, no more than 14%. At this point you really need to mix well for a few minutes. Then go ahead and add your waxes, Beeswax at 5% and the Rice Bran at 3.5% (Again, mix well, very well.) This should give you a good emulsion. But I don’t know where you get your waxes from so, if it still comes out too loose, go ahead and heat the batch back up and add in more wax until the desired thickness is achieved. Once this is finished cool the batch down to about 25 Degrees C (while mixing) and you can add in a fragrance or a preservative (highly recommended)
Hope this helps.
These waxes are not emulsifiers but are great for stabilizing and thickening a product. Unfortunately there arent a lot of truly natural options to emulsify water and oil but I wanted to share a few. Lecithin is good for emulsifying w/o creams, and you can purchase organic sunflower lecithin rather than soy. There is also organic emulsifying wax available, the waxes act as stabilizers and lecithin emulsifies. Another good option is organic emulsifier blend 60 for o/w emulsions. This is made from rice protein. Hope that helps clarify any confusion!